How to Tell If a Louis Vuitton Bag Is Authentic – And Avoid Fakes

The secondhand market for Louis Vuitton is growing fast, and unfortunately so is the number of skillfully made fakes. If you're considering buying a vintage Louis Vuitton bag, it's worth knowing what to look for before you decide. Here we go through the most important authenticity signs.

1. The Date Code

Most Louis Vuitton bags made from the 1980s onward have a date code stamped into the leather, usually hidden in a seam or pocket. The code typically consists of two letters (factory/country) followed by four digits (week and year). A code that's missing entirely, misspelled, or placed in the wrong location is a warning sign – but some older models from the early 1980s or before have no code at all, which is completely normal.

2. Canvas and Pattern

Louis Vuitton places the monogram pattern with great precision. Seams are deliberately positioned so they never cut straight through a "LOUIS VUITTON" letter or the center of a monogram flower – those elements are always kept whole and intact. On joined side panels, such as front and back, the pattern should also mirror symmetrically.

However, it's completely normal – and actually a sign of authenticity – for the monogram to appear upside down on one side of models like the Speedy and Keepall. These bags are sewn from a single continuous piece of canvas wrapped around the entire bag body, which inevitably means the pattern ends up upside down on one of the sides. So the warning sign isn't an upside-down pattern itself, but rather a letter or flower being cut off mid-shape at a seam, a pattern that's blurry or distorted, or uneven coloring. The material should also feel slightly textured – not glossy or plastic-like as on many fakes.

3. Stitching and Hardware

Authentic Louis Vuitton has straight, even stitching with an exact stitch count per model. The hardware (zippers, locks, studs) should feel heavy and be engraved with "LOUIS VUITTON" in a clean, even font – never cast or blurry text.

4. The Leather Patinas Naturally

Vachetta leather (the light-colored trim and handles) is natural leather that patinas and darkens over time and with use. Leather that's too perfect, too glossy, or completely lacking patina on an older bag can be a warning sign.

5. Buy From a Trusted Source

The safest way to feel confident in your purchase is to buy from a seller who authenticity-checks every bag before listing it for sale. At The Vintage Gallery, every bag is manually inspected – date code, materials, stitching and hardware – before it's published, and we clearly state the age and condition in every product description.

Browse our current range of authenticity-checked Louis Vuitton bags and find your next bag with full confidence.